The few times that I had been to Amsterdam, it was always on my way somewhere else. It was never my final destination. Many travelers use Amsterdam as a first or last stop on a European journey. The airport is very well connected, and Holland is located very close to other major European countries such as Germany, the UK and Belgium. KLM is headquartered at Schiphol airport, and it is one of the most popular airlines for international travel across vast continents.

Once at Schiphol, arriving at the city center or anywhere else in this compact country is very easy. The train service is frequent, reliable and economical. There are trains connecting every city and town in Holland, and it you can reach most cities within less than an hour, or maybe a maximum of two hours if you are travelling from the northern tip to the southern tip. Otherwise, a taxi to central Amsterdam costs somewhere in the 40 Euro range.

On previous visits to Amsterdam, I mostly stayed downtown – once at the swanky W hotel for a business trip, and at the InnTel Hotel. On my last time in Amsterdam, I was spending an entire month in Europe 9particularly Spain and Italy), so I was more budget conscious. I came across better deals just outside Amsterdam in the town of Zandaam, and public transport made it very easy to use Zandaam as my base. It was December, and the weather is usually bleak and rainy during the winter months.

Zandaam is a mostly residential suburb within a few railway stops from the city center. I chose to stay at Easy Hotels. As the name suggest, this chain provides very basic type of accommodation and level of service. The location was on a commercial street, overlooking coffee shops, supermarkets and clothing stores. The houses here are brightly colored and resemble dock houses in a port area. One large building in particular stands out, it is a tower that is constructed as though from several houses stacked together, some in an inverted shape. I arrived on a Sunday afternoon. As with most cities in Europe, most activity dies down on Sunday as it is very hard to find shops that are open, even for food.

Holland is officially called the Netherlands. It is a flat country that is at a low elevation level, hence the name Netherlands, or ‘low-lying country’ in the local Dutch language. When we think of Holland, postcard pictures of wind mills, tulips and traditional Klomp wooden shoes come to mind. Modern-day Holland, especially Amsterdam, is very far from that reality.

Amsterdam is Holland’s capital and largest city. Its metropolitan area is where over 2 million of the country’s total 17 million residents live, followed by Utrecht, Rotterdam and the Hague. It is a cosmopolitan and international city that doesn’t feel distinctly Dutch. English is widely spoken and it is very accessible, making you feel like you are in any big city of Europe. Throughout the 20th century, it has attracted large immigrant populations from Turkey as well as the former colonies that stretched from Africa to the Caribbean West Indies and Indonesia.

Perhaps what gives away that you are in Amsterdam is the huge network of canals and small bridges connecting the city. This earned Amsterdam the nickname ‘Venice of the North’. The central station is called Dam Square, with many hotels and businesses located here. It is a historic part of the city that also houses a World War 2 monument the Royal Palace, the one of three palaces where the Dutch monarchy resides. Dam square was named after the actual dam constructed in the 13th century to protect floods coming in from the Amstel River. Considering Holland’s topography, dams were crucial to the survival of its coastal cities throughout history. Dam square is the site of many public events. The Madame Tussaud’s wax museum is also located here. Built in the early 1970s, it is the first Madame Tussaud’s to open in Europe and houses life-sized wax figures of international celebrities and Dutch royal figures.

Amsterdam is well-known for its museums, as Holland has produced some of the world’s most famous painters since the Renaissance Era. The most famous painter from Holland was Vincent Van Gogh, whose eclectic Post-Impressionist style influenced European art in the 19th century. Having led an impoverished life with a tragic end, there is a famous museum dedicated to his work and life. It is recommended to check visiting hours and to book in advance to secure a spot to visit the museum.

Before Van Gogh, there were Rembrandt and Vermeer, both of whom were masters of art in the 17th century, an epoch known as the Dutch Golden Age. Some of their most famous work is on display at the Rijkmuseum, which holds a collection of over 2,000 Dutch paintings. This epoch is referred to as the Dutch Golden Age. It is housed in an elegant heritage building that resembles an elongated palace with a public square in front and well-maintained gardens in the back. As the national museum of Holland, this museum documents Dutch art and history since the early first millennium. The museum’s centerpiece is its elaborate multi-story library. It is the nation’s oldest public library housed under a glass dome, and with an antique winding staircase.

The nearby Nieuwendijk district is a great place to stroll around and spend time in. There are many interesting shops and cozy bars. Beyond salted herring and deep-fried crusty balls (Bitterballen), there isn’t much to Dutch cuisine. However, Holland is famous for its cheese and beer. You can enjoy a platter of assorted cheeses, from popular Edam and Gouda, to lesser-known varieties at one of the small cafes. No trip to Amsterdam is complete without a few pints of Heineken, which you can enjoy on the street, in a café or by visiting the Heineken Museum for a demo and tasting session.

As evening sets in, the historical center is beautifully illuminated and the lights on canals and bridges reflect on the water. There are many canal cruises offered in Amsterdam at daytime or the evening. The cruise boats are large and sturdy, and most have a closed indoor seating area for a warm and comfortable experience.

For the past few decades, Holland has been particularly renowned for its socially progressive policies. In the red lights district, it seems that nothing is prohibited. The ‘coffee shop’ concept where visitors are allowed to consume cannabis for recreational purposes started here many years ago. The red lights district is also home to numerous brothels, all of which are legal and monitored by the government. While it may border on the seedy side, you are free to turn around and walk away. It is entirely possible to visit Amsterdam without ever setting foot in the red lights district.

Amsterdam’s reputation as Sin City attracts many partygoers who come in from nearby countries to indulge and have a wild weekend. Sadly, you are likely to run into tourists who are loud and brash while in Amsterdam. The city has recently taken measures to curb over tourism and to attract a more discerning type of tourists that come for the culture and not for the debauchery.

Another thing that may be off putting is that most businesses no longer accept cash. Your international card may not work everywhere. Even when you need to use a public washroom, you need to swipe a card. That can be inconvenient, even if it only costs 50 cents. On my last visit here in 2022, I noticed the local aversion to cash and coins, even for the smallest purchases.

Amsterdam is also extremely bike-friendly. Bicycles are the primary mode of transport for the urbanites. It is very important to respect traffic rules and make sure that you are not walking on a bike line. The Dutch take their bicycles very seriously. They tend to cycle fast and might not stop for you if you’re in the wrong lane. You might be yelled in the best case, or bumped into in the worst-case scenario. Make sure to always be aware of your surroundings and to walk in the appropriate lane.

Finally, make sure to have your trips mapped out and a GPS on-hand. While the historic alleyways are very charming and full of character, they all start to blend into one and are easy to get lost in. Street names are long and similar-sounding, and the people you might try to ask for directions won’t usually know how to guide you. In fact, there is something very impersonal about Amsterdam. While it feels international and welcoming to everyone, it’s as though no one is truly from here or can give accurate direction. Planning is key for getting around the city.

On my last day, I took a 40-minute train to visit an old friend who lives in Rotterdam. Rotterdam is one of Europe’s most important port cities. While somewhat similar in size to Amsterdam, it is much more industrial, Dutch in population and less boisterous than its bigger sister. The central station is big, modern and has a giant food court with all kinds of cuisine. I had some of the best Turkish mantu dumplings at the station.

Rotterdam suffered much more bombardment than Amsterdam during World War 2, resulting in a much more modern skyline. As soon as you leave the central train station, there are many glass skyscrapers looking out on the waterfront. One area about a 10-minute walk away and that was untouched by war is Haringvliet, where my friend Femke lives. Many of the narrow, tiled-roof houses built along the canal date back to the 18th century. On the canal, there is a large number of permanently-parked narrowboats. They are considered prime real estate where many locals would love to live.

Beyond Amsterdam and Rotterdam, Utrecht is the student capital of Europe’s, and to the south, the Hague offers gothic architecture and houses the international tribunal, earning it the name of ‘The International City of Peace and Justice’. For international visitors, Holland is a great place from which to start on a European trip. Schiphol airport is a convenient and reliable entry point into the continent, with flights to and from many destinations. While Amsterdam does have a few unique things to offer, I often found it to be a globalized European city without much of a distinctly Dutch imprint left over. Based on my past experiences, I wouldn’t recommend The Netherlands as a principal destination to get the most out of Europe, but a safe and convenient entry point.

The Netherlands Pros:

· Amazing railway system and interconnected cities

· Global flight hub

· English is spoken everywhere

· A great place for beer lovers

· Relatively safe

The Netherland Cons:

· Can be pricy for hotels and entertainment

· Modern, but somewhat lacking in character

· Cold and rainy during winter

Holland: Convenient Gateway into Europe